We eat 4.5 billion tacos a year. We eat them on Tuesdays, but we’ll say yes any other day of the week too. We’ve combined them with the internet’s favorite animal—cats—to come up with the world’s cutest palindrome. In other words: We can’t get enough of ’em.
But what makes a taco a taco? Who invented tacos? Where did tacos originate?
“Every taco tells a story about the land, the people that made it, migration, and immigration,” says Maite Gómez-Rejón, cultural historian and founder of ArtBites: Cooking Art History, which offers classes, recipes, and more. (She also co-curated the inaugural exhibit for LA Plaza Cocina, the first museum dedicated to Mexican food.) Read on to find out more.
We can’t attribute the history of tacos to an exact date or really know who made the first taco, Gómez-Rejón says. Even the first cookbook published in Mexico, 1831’s El Cocinero Mexicano, doesn’t mention tacos or tortillas. While the cookbook became known for taking a strong nationalist stance and delineating native Mexican food from colonial influence, that influence still reigned strong at the time.
But in the years preceding the Mexican Revolution, which began in 1910, questions emerged about what it meant to be truly Mexicano—and, not coincidentally, the first taquerias opened in Mexico City. “The first taco recipes in print date to the late 1930s, when Josefina Velázquez de León, a cooking instructor and author who traveled the country collecting regional recipes from female home cooks, documented what Mexicans across the country really ate,” Gómez-Rejón says. “So we don’t see a published taco recipe until the 1930s, but people in Mexico had been eating them, and all of their regional variations, for centuries.”
“Every culture has some sort of dish consisting of a filling wrapped in dough,” says Gómez-Rejón. South America has its empanadas; the Middle East has stuffed pitas; Europe has its crepes and blintzes. So what differentiates a taco from those savory bites? “What makes a taco a taco is the tortilla,” she says. Pair that tortilla with a filling—traditionally meat, fish, beans, and vegetables in varying combinations—and you’ve got a taco.
From there, what makes a taco a taco varies by the aficionado. Some say a taco can’t be called a taco unless the tortilla is made of corn (more on that below). Gómez-Rejón says she believes that “a taco isn’t a taco without a really good salsa.” As for what ingredients are in taco seasoning—whether made from scratch or picked up premade—look to paprika, chili powder, cumin, salt, onion powder, and a few other easy-to-find flavorings.
“Judging by dinner menus across the country, tacos are practically limitless both in fillings and in styles. Standard taco fillings include beef, chicken, fish, and chorizo, a seasoned ground pork sausage. While you can use different grains for the tortilla, the original tortilla was made of corn—“the life force of the Americas,” says Gómez-Rejón. The indigenous tortilla is soft and made with nixtamalized corn, an ancient process where ripe corn grains are soaked in an alkalized solution of water and calcium hydroxide, which heightens the grain’s nutritional value.
“The flour tortilla emerged post-conquest with the introduction of wheat, and today there are many tortilla variations using alternative flours,” Gómez-Rejón says. “Oat and almond tortillas are actually quite delicious.”
But this has changed. “Immigrants’ culinary traditions have been embraced in the U.S., and taco trucks and taquerias selling everything from tacos al pastor to barbacoa and carnitas—similar to what you can find anywhere in Mexico—have popped up in cities all over the country,” Gómez-Rejón says. “Today you can find tacos with Asian and Polish flavors and every flavor in between. The taco has and will continue to evolve.”
Kick off your taco night by soaking up some taco-inspired art. Gómez-Rejón suggests you check out Diego Rivera’s “Market of Tlatelolco” at the National Palace in Mexico City, a mural featuring various references to tortillas. As she puts it, “The tortilla, after all, is the soul of the taco.”
From there, graze through the HelloFresh taco recipes—or jump right in with these standouts: